The High Court - imposing domed building of judicature at Hyderabad

The High Court of Hyderabad - imposing domed building of judicature at Hyderabad

      The High Court building across the Musi river at Hyderabad is an awesome structure with a story to  tell, standing for over 100 years. It is built in pink granite and sandstone in Indo-Saracenic style of architecture over nine acres of land near the river Musi which flows through Hyderabad. The structure was built by the VIIth Nizam, Nawab Mir Osman Ali Khan. A ''hukum'' of the Nizam of Hyderabad was in place to appoint judges and the court was governed by the Civil Service rules of the time. The building has served the erstwhile state of Hyderabad, Andhra Pradesh and now Telangana State.The Andhra Pradesh High Court was renamed as High court of Hyderabad in view of bifurcation of the State into Telangana and Andhra Pradesh; from 2nd June 2014 after the Andhra Pradesh Reorganisation Act, 2014 came into force. It was renamed and served as a common high court for both the states. But Andhra Pradesh has now got its own High Court and the building is now the High Court of Telangana State which came to existence on 1st January 2019.

High Court of  Telangana State, Hyderabad, image, 21st century.

'Loyaulte Me Lie'

Echoes through history

A sacred oath, a blessing

A cry for truth and justice

Of equality and freedom

That lies at the heart of

Kingship and of princes and men.

Let justice prevail in all its form

Let the truth be known

That Loyalty Binds Me. 

.........................David Wood

      

High Court of  Telangana State, Hyderabad, image, 21st century.

 On 20 April 1920 the High Court building was inaugurated by VIIth Nizam of Hyderaabd State, Nawab Mir Osman Ali Khan. The plan of the High Court had been made  by architect Shankar Lal of Jaipur. The civil engineer who executed the design of this awesome building was Mehar Ali Fazil, the chief engineer was Nawab Khan Bahadur Mirza Akbar Baig. The construction had started on 15 April 1915 and was completed on 31 March 1919, thus it took five years to build. Vincent J. Esch, British architect and engineer, had provided expert guidance. The building could accommodate six judges,  Record Rooms and Advocates' Hall besides accommodation for the office staff. The number of judges incresed over time and was 12 when Andhra Pradesh was formed in 1956. Additional buildings had to be built during 1958-9.

       The High Court used to function at Patthergatti and other places before this building was made.There was a judicial system in place by the efforts of Sir Salar Jung I, Prime minister of Hyderabad State from 1853 to 1883. 

      The decorated entrance trefoil arch is on one of the tallest in India, with medallions on the spandrels. Rows of lotus petals around the base of domes add beauty and mystique to this already graceful structure.  A silver model of the High Court building, with a silver key, was presented to  Nizam VII, Nawab Mir Osman Ali Khan by the Judiciary during his reign's Silver Jubilee Celebrations in 1936. The facsimile of the buildings was perfectly carved in a thick sheet of silver weighing about 300 kg. The model is now kept along with other artefacts in the Nizams' Museum at the Purani Haveli palace in the old city, Hyderabad.

High Court of Judicature, Hyderabad, image, 20th century.



High Court of  Telangana State , Hyderabad, image, 21st century.



Entrance, High Court of  Telangana State, Hyderabad, image, 21st century. (Sakshi newspaper image)

        When the foundation was being done, there came to light the existence ruins of two Qutub shahi palaces, interestingly called Hina Mahal and Nadi Mahal. The High Court building forms an excellent backdrop to the setting sun, with its domes at different levels giving an ethereal experience everyday, and one cant help but gaze at it !



Sunset view, High Court of  Telangana State, Hyderabad.





References :

• wikipedia.org
• www.thehindubusinessline.com
• www.thenewsminute.com
• https://telangana.gov.in/judiciary
• poetryhunter.com
• Images from Wikimedia commons

Posted by:


Soma Ghosh


Ⓒauthor

The story of Hyderabadi Biryani : Nawabi cuisine

The story of Hyderabadi Biryani : Nawabi cuisine

    A walk down any Hyderabadi street will show eateries and takeaways with the word "Biryani". Mention it to anyone and their eyes will light up. It is Hyderabad's all time favourite dish. People have it throughout the year and even keep bets whose prize is Biryani !

         The history of Biryani is bit of a mystery. The word ''Biryan" means to fry before cooking in Persian. It could also have come from the Persian word for rice, birinj.  Some sources mention that it was made for the military from the time of Emperor Babur. Also it might have developed from a mix of Indian spicy rice dishes and a Persian pulao-like dish. The dish developed in the Mughal kitchens, some sources mention. Biryani may have been derived from 'pulao' (a lightly flavoured rice dish) varieties brought to the Indian subcontinent by Arab traders.This awesomely flavoured rice with spices and mutton/chicken/ vegetables/egg or fish/prawn is very popular. The original biryani though is actually made with mutton or lamb/goat meat, the later varieties are deviations. Hyderabad's cuisine is a composite mix of many cultures and tastes. Mughal, British and the local cuisine from the surrounding areas. The Nizami kitchens, especially that of Nawab Mir Mahboob Ali Khan, Nizam VI brought out delectable delicacies. The master chef was called Khansaman. The Falaknama Palace at Hyderabad has the largest dining table in the world. The repertoire of dishes has happened over time and includes starters like lukhmi and tootak. The breads include naan, roti, naazuknaan, naanpaneeri, warqi paratha, sheermaal, asadkhani among others. Kebabs are another important part of the cuisine with taas kebab, Barq kebab, kebaba chalki among a few others. Koftas, khormas and  curries like baghare baingan and mirch ka salan are well liked. Pathar ka gosht cooked on stone is also a part of Hyderabad's culinary history.

                              Hyderabadi Kucchi Biryani, image.

The recipe of Hyderabadi biryani  uses ghee, cinnamon,onions,raw papaya,mutton,curd,red chillies,salt,caraway or shahjeera,garlic,ginger, a fine long grained rice known as Basmati rice,cardamom,cloves,saffron,milk, corainder,mint and lime juice.

   

The recipe for Hyderabadi Kucchi Biryani is on this link -

https://youtu.be/WOvFCGjGp1A

Spices for Biryani, image.

Biryani is a not eaten alone. It has accompaniments like raita and mirch ka salan. Boiled eggs are also added to the main recipe after preparation. Raita usually has onion, curd, herbs and some spices.

Raita served alongside, image.

The recipe for raita is in the following link :

https://youtu.be/4asXPpA1iOo

Chicken Biryani, image.

Hyderabadi Vegetable Biryani, image.

Dining table, Falaknama Palace,Hyderabad.

References :

1.Asifya cuisines/Ed. by Zahid Ali Khan, Hyderabad : Siasat Presentation, 2013.

2.https://youtu.be/WOvFCGjGp1A
3. The essential Andhra cookbook/Latif, Bilkees, New Delhi : Penguin Books,1999.
4.wikipedia.org
5. Images are from Wikimedia Commons

Posted by :

Soma Ghosh

Ⓒauthor

Falaknuma Palace : mirror of the sky

Falaknuma Palace : mirror of the sky 

     The Falaknuma Palace at Hyderabad is a jewel among palaces. Built in the late 19th century, on a 32 acre piece of land, by Nawab Viqar-ul-Umrah, a Paigah noble and Prime Minister of the Hyderabad State during the erstwhile rule of the Nizam. Built on the Koh-i-tur Hill from 1884 to 1893 it is shaped like a scorpion. It took 22 years to fill the palace with artefacts, inlaid furniture, Venetian chandeliers, marble statues, stained glass windows, crystals and jades; also the portraits of royalty. The interiors represent different composite styles; Renaissance, Baroque, art-deco and Asaf Jahi elements to create a brilliant visual effect. The palace is 5 kilometres from Charminar, Hyderabad's iconic monument. Made from Italian marble, the palace has an area of 1,011,500 square feet. To a person on the ground, this grand beautiful white palace at a height seems to be in conversation with the passing white clouds in the sky, a mirror of the sky ! A piece of the sky. 

Falaknuma Palace, front view, Hyderabad.

Falaknuma Palace, main building, Hyderabad, pic by Raja Deen Dayal, 1890s.

  Probably Sir Viqar-ul-umrah had thought while building the palace -

Spread your wings, it's time to fly. Make the leap, own the sky.

                                                                              ....MsMoem




                          Falaknuma Palace, main building, Hyderabad.

      The palace  which is 2000 feet above the city, was given to the Nawab Mir Mahboob Ali Khan, Nizam VI by Nawab Viqar-ul-umrah around 1897. The VIth Nizam was enchanted with the palace on a visit, which he kept extending. This prompted Viqar-ul-Umrah to gift it to him, who was also his brother-in-law. The palace was designed by British architect William Ward Marret (1840-1903) and made at a cost of 4 million  rupees. Nizam VI used it till about 1911. Later it was used as a guest house for state visitors. The guests of the Nizam who stayed at the palace include King George V, Queen Mary, Edward VIII and Tsar Nicholas II.  President Rajendra Prasad stayed at the palace in 1951.It fell into disuse in the 1950s. The palace has been leased to the Taj Group of Hotels in 2000 by Prince Mukkaram Jah Bahadur, grandson of Nizam VII, Nawab Mir Osman Ali Khan and son of Princess Durrushevar. The renovation work was overseen by Princess Esra, his first wife. The palace was reopened as a heritage luxury hotel in 2010. The renovations were done very carefully as to retain the originality of the palace with its Asaf Jahi aura. The Nizams were the erstwhile rulers of the Hyderabad-Deccan state from the Asaf Jahi dynasty. At present one still finds beautiful tapestries, furniture, brocades et al. A marbled staircase leads to the upper floor with a carved balustrade having marble statues holding candelabras. The walls of the landing have oil paintings of the Asaf Jahi royalty. The Darbar Hall has parquet flooring, carved ceiling, walnut furniture and handmade mirrors. The State reception room is decorated with frescoes. The palace has 22 halls. The palace had Gol Bungalow where Sir Viqar-ul-umrah stayed, the zenana (women's quarters)and mardana (gentlemen's) sections, towards the south-side along with the kitchen. The palace has a Billiards room; with the exclusive table made by Burroughs and Williams, England. 

                               Archways, Falaknuma Palace, Hyderabad.



                          After nightfall, Falaknuma Palace, main building, Hyderabad.



                              Coronation Hall, Falaknuma Palace, Hyderabad. 

      The hotel has 60 rooms for guests and serves both Indian and international cuisine. It has a the Jiva Spa, a fitness centre and space for business and weddings. The original breakfast room of the Nizam is now the Conference room. The dining table can seat 101 guests at a time having carved rosewood chairs and green leather upholstery. Originally the tableware was made of gold and crystal. The palace-hotel has a Huqqa lounge and the Adaa restaurant. The two halls of Gol Bungalow have been transformed into restaurants.

View in the courtyard, Falaknuma Palace, Hyderabad. 


                                 Cannon, Falaknuma Palace, Hyderabad.



View in the courtyard, fountain, part of the palace, Falaknuma Palace, Hyderabad.



View in the courtyard, fountain, part of the palace, Falaknuma Palace, Hyderabad.

        Falaknuma Palace, Hyderabad.

Fresco at the main building, Falaknuma Palace, Hyderabad.

                                    Interiors, Falaknuma Palace, Hyderabad.




Balcony with cuppola, Falaknuma Palace, Hyderabad.

Dining table, Falaknuma Palace, Hyderabad.

                                           Falaknuma Palace, Hyderabad.

                         Portraits of royalty, interiors, Falaknuma Palace, Hyderabad.
                               

                                        Interiors, Falaknuma Palace, Hyderabad.

       The monogram of Sir Viqar-ul-umrah/Omra VO is found at many places in the palace; dining chairs, library ceiling. The library houses nearly 7000 manuscripts and books in English, Persian and Urdu, on various subjects ranging poetry, travels, art, architecture, encyclopaedias and Deccan history.

                                       Library,  Falaknuma Palace, Hyderabad.




 Sunset view, Falaknuma Palace, Hyderabad.






References :

• wikipedia.org
• Images are sourced from Wikimedia Commons, Coronation Hall, Falaknuma Palace, Hyderabad- www.flickr.com/photos/ankurp/23364900405 and Interiors, Falaknuma Palace, Hyderabad -www.flickr.com/photos/skender/9921654826 Portraits of royalty, interiors, Falaknuma Palace, Hyderabad -                            www.flickr.com/photos/skender/9921124994 Sunset view, Falaknuma Palace, Hyderabad- https://www.flickr.com/photos/ankurp/23069090160  and The Hindu (newspaper)

Posted by:


Soma Ghosh


Ⓒauthor

Dress of Golconda and Hyderabad : images from miniature paintings

Dress of Golconda and Hyderabad : images from miniature paintings

             The kingdom of Golconda is one of the Deccan Sultanates who ruled the region from 1512 to 1687 under different rulers/kings or Sultans, from the Qutub Shahi dynasty.They had asserted their independence from the powerful but disintegrating Bahmani rule in the Deccan. Their way of life was opulent with emphasis on the growth of art, architecture and literature. Their manners and dress were highly influenced by the Persian court. They encouraged languages like Persian, Telugu and Dakhni. The Sultans were poets themselves .Many works were produced during their time. Also miniature paintings under the Golconda and later Hyderabad school happened during the beginning of Asaf Jahi rule. This article offers glimpses of the dress and textiles in use during the reign of the Qutub Shahi kings and early Asaf Jahis through glimpses from miniature paintings made mostly by court artists. Many travellers who came to the kingdom as diamond merchants have also mentioned some details of the dress and culture of the period in their travelogues. The textiles and fashion at the Qutub Shahi court were of a composite type, a blend of Mughal, Vijaynagara and Telugu styles.

Sultan Abdullah Qutub Shah, in white jama having floral design,with a gold coat,patka and shawl, Golconda school,17th century. San Diego Museum of Art, U S A.

    Cotton was grown abundantly given the black soil of the region that they ruled. The weaving community was an important one during the time. The common people also wore differently coloured bright clothes. In summer the lighter shades were preferred and the material used was mulmul (thin cotton) for the dhoti (lower garment) and  regular cotton for the jama (upper garment). The famous Kalamkari textiles were used mostly printed and dyed with madder red colour, an extract of a plant found in Masulipatnam and Palakollu,  with other natural ingredients.

                    

   Bhagmati with her attendant,  miniature painting.

         The image above represents Bhagmati, the beloved of Sultan Mohammed Quli Qutub Shah and her companion in a terrace setting. The costume worn by Bhagmati appears to be a precursor to the 'chaugoshia' made up of four different pieces of apparel and was well worn in the Asaf Jahi 'mahallat'. During the Qutub Shahi reign the telia rumal produced at Devarakonda, Pochampalli Hanamakonda and Kurnool were widely used as dupattas, dhotis, sarees, turbans and patkas or waist bands. Qutub Shahi women wore  sarees  made at Paithan. Hyderabad produced awesome himroo and kimkhab fabrics. Also zari work with gold and silver threads. The centres at Dharmavaram and Anantapur too made sarees. Animal and bird motifs were frequently used on the borders. The Kulliyat of Mohammad Quli Qutub Shah mentions... hems of sarees of women adorned with pearls...!

 Dancer, Golconda School, mid 17th century, LACMA, Los Angeles.

lIluminated Manuscript, History of the Qutb Shahi Sultans of Golconda,17th century, LACMA , Los Angeles, U S A. 

Sultan Abul Hasan Qutub Shah, wearing a long jama, patka and shawl, along with a coat with floral designs. miniature painting.

Nizam-ul-Mulk, Asaf Jah I wearing a long robe-jama and a coloured coat, seen with attendants holding flywhisks  and wearing coloured jamas and patkas, miniature painting, 18th century, Hyderabad.

Women on a terrace, wearing long skirts with floral motifs,18th century, Hyderabad.

References :

• Kumari, Meena V/Arts and architecture of Qutub Shahi times : lesser known monuments /Delhi : B. R Publishing Corporation,2014.
• Mittal, Jagdish/Deccani Kalams/Bombay : Marg Publications, Vol XVI,No : 2, 1963.
• Zebrowski, Mark/Deccani painting, New Delhi : Roli Books,1983.
• Images are from Wikimedia Commons

Posted by :

Soma Ghosh

Ⓒauthor

Salar Jung Museum : a one-man collection

Salar Jung Museum : a one-man collection

     On the southern bank of the Musi river which flows through Hyderabad, used be the Mir Alam Baradari, the Lakkadkot, a summer palace which later came to be known as Salar Jung Baradari. This place was however pulled down and in the place where its gardens used to be, was built the present Salar Jung Museum. Locals say that this place is where a palace called Gulzar Mahal was once there during the Qutub Shahi times. A one man collection, primarily the collections of Nawab Mir Yousuf Ali Khan, Salar Jung III. He was a prime-minister to the erstwhile Nizams rule of Hyderabad-Deccan. In fact five members of the family have been prime-ministers or dewans at different points of time. His grandfather was Nawab Mir Turab ali Khan, Sir Salar Jung I , a prime-minister who was premier for 30 years under three Nizams and brought many reforms and contributed in the development of the state. The collections used to be housed at Dewan Deodi, or prime-minster's mansion in old city of Hyderabad not far away from the present building from 1951 to July 1968. The first Prime Minister of India, Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru had inaugurated the museum in the older family mansion on 16th December 1951.

Present building, Salar Jung Museum, Hyderabad.

Lakkadkot images, Hyderabad; the river Musi can be seen flowing in front.

                                            

Nawab Mir Yousuf Ali Khan, Salar Jung III.             Masnad of Salar Jung III.

Salar Jung III with Nizam VII at Ainakhana, Dewan Deodi, Hyderabad.

Salar Jung III had died in 1949 without an heir to his awesome collection. The collection was handed over to an Estate Committee and finally to the Government of India who converted it to a museum at his old residence. The scale of his collection points to the fact that he had quit premiership in 1914 to devote himself fully to his passion for collecting antiques, curios and objects of art and  literature. This awesome collection contains objects from India, Europe, Middle East and Far Eastern countries including Myanmar, Nepal and Egypt. The media include stone and bronze sculptures,miniature and modern paintings, ceramics, porcelain, textile, arms and armour, manuscripts, wood, ivory, silver and marble. Some important exhibits in its 40 galleries include the Veiled Rebecca, the Double Statue and a Musical Bracket Clock from England. This museum is in the itinerary of most Hyderabad tourists.

Among its nearly 40 galleries where objects have been carefully curated and presented to the public, mentioned here are the some of the galleries and popular objects. 

Founders' Gallery : A dedicated gallery tells the visitor about the illustrious family of the Salar Jungs. There is a family history chart, personal belongings of the Salar Jungs along with excellent portraits, clothes, mementos, phatographs, tableware and other items  give us a glimpse into their life and times. The Masnad in the image above is from the gallery.

Bronzes : The bronzes collection is varied which include some folk bronzes. There are Chola bronzes sculpted to perfection seen in the gallery. Some Pallava images also adorn the display. The Nataraja images from the Chola empire are seen, the biggest being 97.5 cm in height. Many bronzes from the Vijayanagara periods are also part of the collection. A Somaskanda bronze image from the 16th century is a highlight among the bronzes. The Jaina bronzes depict the tirthankaras.

Textiles : The museum has an interesting variety of textiles. Patola from Gujarat, shawls from Kashmir with the ornate turanj designs, dupattas and sarees from Banaras. Also exquisite kimkhab work adds some magic. The collection has jamdanis of Lucknow and Dacca muslins. Few kanthas of Bengal and Baluchar textiles add further variedness. There is phulkari embroidery from Punjab and Chamba rumals too. Mughal time curtains, Kutch embroidery, Kalamkari temple hangings and Golconda cloth paintings, pichhwais; cloth paintings with Krishnaleela themes are also part of the collection.

Miniature paintings : This genre of Indian painting is well represented in the museum's collection. The museum owns Jaina Kalpasutra works from Western India; the Gujarat School, some works of the celebrated Mughal School and the unique Deccan paintings of Bijapur and Golconda. Also there are paintings from the Rajasthani schools of Mewar, Marwar, Bundi, Kishangarh,Kota, Jodhpur, Bikaner, Jaipur, Amber, Alwar and Sirohi. There are pleasing Pahari paintings from Basohli and Kangra in the collection.

Jade collection : The museum has an awesome jade repertoire. Jade has been fashioned in India and China and the museum has some exclusive pieces including the Mughal ones. Jade is a semi- precious mineral rock out of which a variety of objects were shaped. There are wine cups, handles of daggers, archers rings, mirror backs,knife handles, boxes,cups, book stands, bowls among a variety of objects with sheen, translucence, lustre and semi precious stones on them.

Ivory artworks : Though ivory is banned now for creating objects, the museum has exquisite ivory carvings of previous eras depicting animal, human, mythological, paper mats, chess pieces hand fans, book covers, paintings on ivory among many others.

Ivory elephant with howdah.

Modern paintings : The museum houses modern art collected initially by Salar Jung III to which later additions were made. There are few Raja Ravi Varma paintings, A.R Chugtai and Bengal School paintings represented by M. N Roy and Nandalal Bose. The museum also has K.K Hebbar, P.T. Reddy, Paidi Raju, K.S Kulkarni as well. Abstract artworks are also in the collection by Madhusudan Rao, Surya Prakash, Dilip Dasgupta among others.



Stolen interview, painting by Raja Ravi Varma.

Arms and armour : The museum has an amazing collection of arms. Swords. daggers, helmets, armour like chest plates, shields, suits and firearms too. Match-lock, flint-lock and muzzle loading guns, pistols, revolvers and cannons. The blades of many swords are mostly of Persian origin whereas the hilts are mainly Indian. Known as Firangi interestingly.  The museum has jambias, tabar,peshkabz, talwars and katar. The museum has sailapah, sirohi and kukri  too in its collection. Many spears and lances and weapons like maru, baghnakh,shahspar are also present.



Arms on view.  


Different media : The museum has a silver collection, Bidri ware,wood carvings, ceramics, glass, carpets, metal ware among others. Also Nepalese, Tibetan and Burmese collection.

Chinese -Japanese collection : Awesome porcelain from the 12th to 19th century is part of the collection. The celadon ware is highly mentionable in the Chinese collection. The Blue and white jars and plates  is mostly from the Wan Li period. Japanese embroidery and porcelain are well represented. Blue and white porcelain, Arita, Imari,Hirado, Seto, Kioto, Kutani and Satsuma are all part of the collection. Also Japanese water colour paintings on silk and artistic lacquer ware, ivories, swords and daggers, netsuke; toggles or buttons are part of the collection.

Western Art : The imposing collection in this category has marble, bronzes, clocks, paintings, furniture, porcelain and glass. There are many replicas and some originals. Turner, Constable,Sir Frederick Leighton, Poynter, Watts and Schmalz all come alive in the Painting gallery. Also animal painters Sir Landseer and T.S Cooper. Italian painter Canaletto, Hayez, Aldine and few others are also depicted. The marble sculptures are mainly copies of Greek mythological figures done by masters. But the Veiled Rebecca is an original masterpiece. The bronzes are also mythological sculptures, historical figures and literary persons. Lacoon and his sons, Mercury resting, Medici Venus are some of the figures. King John signing the Magna Carta is also an important piece. The museum has English Porcelain from the 19th century. there are cups, saucers, plates, vases figurines among others. There is also excellent Wedgewood pottery in the collection. The museum has Dresden porcelain from Germany and Sevres collection from France dateable to the regn of King Louis XV,XVI and Napolean I. Also exquisite Italian porcelain. the museum houses amazing glass pieces of artistic endeavour from Venice, England, france, Bohemia, Belgium, Czechoslovakia and Turkey. There are decanters, bowls, wine glasses, chandeliers, candelabras and wall brackets. The clocks are from Switzerland, France, England, Germany, Holland and America.

Veiled Rebecca : A beautiful marble statue made by G.B. Benzoni, of the bashful, bridal veiled  Rebecca, a Biblical character, bought by Sir Salar Jung I, 1876 during his visit to Europe.



Veiled Rebecca, marble statue,Italy, 19th century.

Double statue : This fine depiction has been carved from 19th century by an unknown French sculptor and represents Mephistopheles and Margeretta, characters from Goethe's Dr. Faust.



Double statue, France,19th century.

Musical clock : a bracket clock from England. it has a mechanical device by which a miniature toy figure come out to strike the gong at each hour and goes back!

English bracket clock.

The museum thus has the galleries, a souvenir shop, audio tours and guides. In the premises there is a Hyderabadi Pearls shop, a Bidricraft store and Hyderabadi lac bangles too are available. There are food joints which serve interesting cuisine !


References :

• Salar Jung Museum Silver Jubilee souvenir, Hyderabad : Salar Jung Museum, 1976.
• Oral history sources, Heritage Buffs group on Whatsapp
• Museum object Images are from Wikimedia Commons and the Lakkadkot image is from the Heritage Buffs group on Whatsapp 

Posted by :


Soma Ghosh

Ⓒauthor