Thursday 27 December 2018

Tree of life : images from Golconda textiles

Tree of life : images from Golconda textiles


      The art of Kalamkari  originated in Machilipatnam, Pallakolu and other places along the Coromandel coast during the 17th century.  It originated as a religious tapestry and later became a secular craft under Muslim rule. The kingdom of Golconda in the Deccan, India was a trading centre for diamonds, gems and textiles. The word Kalamkari or working with the pen evolved when the Golconda Sultans called the craftsmen as ‘kalamkars‘. ‘Kalamkari‘ thus literally means, art work done using a pen. The craft continues to this day with many families devoted to this art. Natural substances from plants, trees and seeds are used in the art and called painted using resist and mordant technique. Depicted are some images using this technique, of the tree of life, a unique and universal concept.
        
   The tree of life is a concept mainly from mythology, a sacred belief connecting all forms of creation. it is depicted in various cultures and traditions of the world. The tree of life is thought of as related to the eternal, a destroyer of sorrow, health, fertility, wisdom and calmness. In the Hindu faith it is the wish fulfilling Kalpavriksha which grants every wish. In Christianity the tree is the source of eternal life. The tree of life is the tree of immortality in Islamic faith. The concept spans across cultures. It is asymbol of connectivity, having roots with the soil; the leaves and branches reaching to the sky, receiving the sun and air. The tree of life represents continuity as it grows from a seed and creates a fruit with seeds, which again gives birth to the new. The tree of life is a symbol of rebirth, the leaves fall in autumn or hibernate in winter and in spring the new leaves appear like being born again. 

Image result for golconda designs


Tree of life,  Tent Hanging or Curtain, late 17th century, Golconda, LACMA, U. S. A.
 
    Charles Darwin proposed a tree of life which is symbolic of the source of all living things. In Chinese mythology,a dragon and phoenix are depicted in the tree of life. The dragon represents immortality. The Bodhi tree is the wisdom tree under which Siddharta Gautama attained enlightenment and became the Buddha. This tree is seen as one where once can seek refuge from worldly desires. the Celtic tree symbolises the forces of nature joining together to maintain balance in the universe. Many animals are are also seen in the tree of life depictions. Birds too are seen on the branches. sometimes the underworld is shown with a water-monster. All forms of life are connected and humans should live in harmony with the world. Everyone has a right to exist and grow as we are children of the Universe.


                The block-printed and dyed textile from the Coromandel coast depicted below consists of a tree of life within ovoid medallions, flanked by cobras and peacocks, the border is of a continuous floral garland. Originally this technique of painted resist and mordant happened under the rule of the Golconda kingdom (1512-1687). However the practice continued in the following centuries with ups and downs, but continues to this day though the designs have changed over the years. The technique was called Kalamkari which is still prevalent.

A PALAMPORE COROMANDEL COAST, SOUTH INDIA, SECOND QUARTER 19TH CENTURY The block-printed and dyed decoration consisting of a central tree within ovoid medallions, flanked by cobras and peacocks, the border a continuous floral garland, small inventory or shipping stamp to a corner 116 ½ x 91in. (296 x 231cm.

Palampore, painted resist and mordant, dyed textile, Coromandel coast, 19th century.

Image sourced from Christie's.com



Palampores were a regular feature of the 18th-century chintz trade to Europe, where they were used as wall hangings and bed-covers and table-cloths. The embroidered palampore below was chain stitched in silk on cotton to create a painted effect. The craftsmen have worked out white silk stitches within the flowers to simulate the tiny white  patterns that appear on painted textiles. Instead of shown as emerging from the usual hilly mound, this tree grows out of an interpretation of a Chinese scholar’s rock, highlighting the overlapping of Chinese, Indian, and European motifs in 18th-century exotic textiles from the East.

* Palampore Cotton embroidered with silk mid-18th century (Coromandel Coast), for the European market Embroidered Palampore was chain stitched in silk on cotton to imitate a painted palampore with remarkable precision. The embroiderers even used white silk stitches within the flowers to simulate the tiny white reserve patterns that appear on painted examples.

Palampore, embroidered textile, cotton with silk, Coromandel coast, mid-18th century, Met Museum, U S A


Palmapores depicting the tree of life show a central flower-and-fruit-bearing serpentine tree emerging from a hillock with stylized peaks or rocks. In addition to those produced for the Dutch and English markets, a class of smaller palampores was made expressly for the intra-Asian trade. This painted version depicted below was originally sourced to Sri Lanka, maybe produced for the European communities in Batavia and Colombo.

Palampore, Cotton (painted resist and mordant, dyed), India (Coromandel Coast), for the Sri Lankan market

Palampore, painted resist and mordant, dyed textile, Coromandel coast, early 18th century, Met Museum, U S A.


      
 The textile piece below is a tree of life depicting the mound, peacocks and flowering tree. The border is an ornate double floral scroll. Done using the Kalamkari technique it is an exquisite work.
Olive-Multicolor Cotton Hand Painted Kalamkari Wall Hanging 46in x 32.5in
Tree of life, Kalamkari hanging, 21st century. 

Image : Jaypore.com



References :


  • wikipedia.org
  • wootandhammy.com
  • spiritualray.com
  • old-earth.com



Posted by:

Soma Ghosh

Ⓒauthor




Tuesday 25 December 2018

Falaknuma Palace : mirror of the sky

Falaknuma Palace : mirror of the sky 



     The Falaknuma Palace at Hyderabad is a jewel among palaces. Built in the late 19th century, on a 32 acre piece of land, by Nawab Viqar-ul-Umrah, a Paigah noble and Prime Minister of the Hyderabad State during the erstwhile rule of the Nizam. Built on the Koh-i-tur Hill from 1884 to 1893 it is shaped like a scorpion. It took 22 years to fill the palace with artefacts, inlaid furniture, Venetian chandeliers, marble statues, stained glass windows, crystals and jades; also the portraits of royalty. The interiors represent different composite styles; Renaissance, Baroque, art-deco and Asaf Jahi elements to create a brilliant visual effect. The palace is 5 kilometres from Charminar, Hyderabad's iconic monument. Made from Italian marble, the palace has an area of 1,011,500 square feet. To a person on the ground, this grand beautiful white palace at a height seems to be in conversation with the passing white clouds in the sky, a mirror of the sky ! A piece of the sky. 

Image result for Falaknuma Palace


Falaknuma Palace, front view, Hyderabad.

Falaknuma 1900.jpg

Falaknuma Palace, main building, Hyderabad, pic by Raja Deen Dayal, 1890s.

  Probably Sir Viqar-ul-umrah had thought while building the palace -

Spread your wings, it's time to fly. Make the leap, own the sky.

                                                                              ....MsMoem


Image result for Falaknuma Palace

                          Falaknuma Palace, main building, Hyderabad.


      The palace  which is 2000 feet above the city, was given to the Nawab Mir Mahboob Ali Khan, Nizam VI by Nawab Viqar-ul-umrah around 1897. The VIth Nizam was enchanted with the palace on a visit, which he kept extending. This prompted Viqar-ul-Umrah to gift it to him, who was also his brother-in-law. The palace was designed by British architect William Ward Marret (1840-1903) and made at a cost of 4 million  rupees. Nizam VI used it till about 1911. Later it was used as a guest house for state visitors. The guests of the Nizam who stayed at the palace include King George V, Queen Mary, Edward VIII and Tsar Nicholas II.  President Rajendra Prasad stayed at the palace in 1951.It fell into disuse in the 1950s. The palace has been leased to the Taj Group of Hotels in 2000 by Prince Mukkaram Jah Bahadur, grandson of Nizam VII, Nawab Mir Osman Ali Khan and son of Princess Durrushevar. The renovation work was overseen by Princess Esra, his first wife. The palace was reopened as a heritage luxury hotel in 2010. The renovations were done very carefully as to retain the originality of the palace with its Asaf Jahi aura. The Nizams were the erstwhile rulers of the Hyderabad-Deccan state from the Asaf Jahi dynasty. At present one still finds beautiful tapestries, furniture, brocades et al. A marbled staircase leads to the upper floor with a carved balustrade having marble statues holding candelabras. The walls of the landing have oil paintings of the Asaf Jahi royalty. The Darbar Hall has parquet flooring, carved ceiling, walnut furniture and handmade mirrors. The State reception room is decorated with frescoes. The palace has 22 halls. The palace had Gol Bungalow where Sir Viqar-ul-umrah stayed, the zenana (women's quarters)and mardana (gentlemen's) sections, towards the south-side along with the kitchen. The palace has a Billiards room; with the exclusive table made by Burroughs and Williams, England. 

Image result for Falaknuma Palace

                               Archways, Falaknuma Palace, Hyderabad.

Image result for Falaknuma Palace

                          After nightfall, Falaknuma Palace, main building, Hyderabad.

Image result for Falaknuma Palace

                              Coronation Hall, Falaknuma Palace, Hyderabad. 

      The hotel has 60 rooms for guests and serves both Indian and international cuisine. It has a the Jiva Spa, a fitness centre and space for business and weddings. The original breakfast room of the Nizam is now the Conference room. The dining table can seat 101 guests at a time having carved rosewood chairs and green leather upholstery. Originally the tableware was made of gold and crystal. The palace-hotel has a Huqqa lounge and the Adaa restaurant. The two halls of Gol Bungalow have been transformed into restaurants.


Falaknuma Palace 02.jpg

View in the courtyard, Falaknuma Palace, Hyderabad. 

सञ्चिका:Falaknuma Palace 07 - Cannon.jpg
                                 Cannon, Falaknuma Palace, Hyderabad.

File:Falaknuma Palace 03.jpg

View in the courtyard, fountain, part of the palace, Falaknuma Palace, Hyderabad.

Image result for Falaknuma Palace

View in the courtyard, fountain, part of the palace, Falaknuma Palace, Hyderabad.

File:Interiors, Falaknuma Palace - 1.jpg

        Falaknuma Palace, Hyderabad.

Faluknama Ceiling Painting.jpg


Fresco at the main building, Falaknuma Palace, Hyderabad.

File:Falaknuma Palace 12.jpg

                                    Interiors, Falaknuma Palace, Hyderabad.


Image result for Falaknuma Palace

Balcony with cuppola, Falaknuma Palace, Hyderabad.

Image result for Falaknuma Palace

Dining table, Falaknuma Palace, Hyderabad.


Image result for Falaknuma Palace

                                           Falaknuma Palace, Hyderabad.

Image result for Falaknuma Palace

                         Portraits of royalty, interiors, Falaknuma Palace, Hyderabad.
                               


Related image

                                        Interiors, Falaknuma Palace, Hyderabad.


       The monogram of Sir Viqar-ul-umrah/Omra VO is found at many places in the palace; dining chairs, library ceiling. The library houses nearly 7000 manuscripts and books in English, Persian and Urdu, on various subjects ranging poetry, travels, art, architecture, encyclopaedias and Deccan history.


Image result for Falaknuma Palace

                                       Library,  Falaknuma Palace, Hyderabad.


Related image

 Sunset view, Falaknuma Palace, Hyderabad.






References :


  • wikipedia.org
  • Images are sourced from Wikimedia Commons, Coronation Hall, Falaknuma Palace, Hyderabad- www.flickr.com/photos/ankurp/23364900405 and Interiors, Falaknuma Palace, Hyderabad -www.flickr.com/photos/skender/9921654826 Portraits of royalty, interiors, Falaknuma Palace, Hyderabad -                            www.flickr.com/photos/skender/9921124994 Sunset view, Falaknuma Palace, Hyderabad- https://www.flickr.com/photos/ankurp/23069090160  and The Hindu (newspaper)



Posted by:


Soma Ghosh


Ⓒauthor



Friday 14 December 2018

Rashtrapati Nilayam : former Residency at Bolarum



     Someway ahead of Trimulgherry at Secunderabad Cantonment (the Lashkar, which is now part of the twin city of Secunderabad adjoining Hyderabad and separated by the Hussain Sagar) is an old colonial style building in splendid white situated in green environs made up of a variety of trees, shrubs and florals. There are interesting rock formations too at places adding to the quiet charm. This is the Bolarum Residency of yore, now called the Rashtrapati Nilayam, built around 1850-60 by the IVth Nizam of Hyderabad, Nawab Nasir-ud-dowla. It was used as a country house by the Resident at Hyderabad.
         


Residency House, Bolarum, Pic by Lala Deen Dayal, 1892.


Image result for rashtrapati nilayam


Gate at Rashtrapati Nilayam, pic from The Hindu (newspaper)

           Now it is the official southern retreat of the President of India. Every year the Hon'ble President stays here for a few days. The whole estate is made up of 97 acres and the building is of a single storey. The exteriors are in white which gives it a pristine and serene look. There are visitors quarters which can accommodate around 150 persons. There is a Dining hall connected by an underground tunnel to the kitchen, Darbar Room and Cinema Hall. The central block has two side wings. Originally there were 8 entrances, now 3 are present. The route to the main building is tree lined and rock formations are seen adding to the natural grandeur. The porch leads to a hallway with rooms on each side. The main building has a south facing drawing room with a north facing Billiards room, now called Cinema. The original Ballroom has a teak wooden floor which is now used as drawing room by the Hon'ble President of India to receive guests. The staff of the President use the Eastern Wing. However during the Resident's time it was the opposite, where staff used the western wing.  The estate has two large wells, with the water used for the house and garden. Many changes were made to the building over the years. 

        There are beautiful landscaped gardens in the campus, different flowering and fruit trees. The whole place is a herbalist's and nature lovers dream come true. There are varieties of medicinal and aromatic plants being grown on the estate. There are orchards of mango,pomegranate, guava, coconut and Indian gooseberry.  The Herbal Garden was inaugurated in 2009, by Smt. Pratibha Patil, Hon'ble President then.The jasmine, tulsi, rosemary, neeli,wild turmeric, passion fruit,tuberose, kalmegh, coriander, lemon grass, sarpagandha, samudrapala, citronella all find a place here. The Rudraksha,baobab tree, Cassia,fig tree and Calabash tree are also present. The Nakshatra Garden representing the 12 zodiacs and 27 lunar mansions was inaugurated in 2015 by Shri Pranab Mukherjee, Hon'ble President of India at that time. Different fauna thrives on the estate. Butterflies, birds, monkeys and tree snakes too! The cobra also lives here, though if caught they are sent to the local zoo. There are grey hornbills, magpie robins, coppersmiths, purple sunbirds, prinias, mottled wood owls among others birds on the large estate.

Related image

Rashtrapati Nilayam, pic from The Hans India (newspaper)


  The Residents who stayed there include Richard Temple among others.  After the end of the First World War. Lord Chelmsford held a reception at the Residency for British and Indian Officers of all regiments and corps. The Earl of Willingdon similarly met over hundred British and Indian Officers in 1933 there.


 The Bolarum Residency has been a spectator to historic events. The first Chief Minister of Hyderabad State M. K Vellodi was sworn in on 1st December 1949 on the grounds of the Bolarum Residency. He used this awesome place as his Secretariat. It was renamed as Rashtrapati Nilayam in 1955. The first India President Dr. Rajendra Prasad came to the Rashtarpati Nilayam in 1956. Dr. S. Radhakrishnan as President first stayed there in 1962. President Zakir Hussain, President Fakhruddin Ali Ahmed  have stayed there.  Queen Elizabeth II and her husband Prince Philip have stayed here in 1983. She was the guest of President Giani Zail Singh. President Neelam Sanjeeva Reddy, President R. Venkataraman President K. R Narayanan and President Shankar Dayal Sharma have have stayed there too as it is the official retreat. President Abdul Kalam hosted a Bio-diesel workshop at Rashtrapati Nilayam and started plantations of fruit trees and initiated the Herbal Garden.


The visitors at Rashtrapati Nilayam

Rashtrapati Nilayam, pic from Deccan Herald (newspaper)







References :


1.https://www.deccanherald.com/content/127508/presidential-retreat-hyderabad-thrown-open.html

2.https://www.thehansindia.com/posts/index/Telangana/2018-01-02/Rashtrapati-Nilayam-opened-for-general-public/349456

3.www.thehindu.com/todays-paper/tp-national/tp-telangana/President-to-spend-five-days-in-city/article16922538.ece

4.The Presidential retreats of India/Wright, Gillian, ed. New Delhi : Publications Division,2015.




Posted by:

Soma Ghosh

Ⓒauthor



Thursday 6 December 2018

Dress of Golconda and Hyderabad : images from miniature paintings

Dress of Golconda and Hyderabad : images from miniature paintings



             The kingdom of Golconda is one of the Deccan Sultanates who ruled the region from 1512 to 1687 under different rulers/kings or Sultans, from the Qutub Shahi dynasty.They had asserted their independence from the powerful but disintegrating Bahmani rule in the Deccan. Their way of life was opulent with emphasis on the growth of art, architecture and literature. Their manners and dress were highly influenced by the Persian court. They encouraged languages like Persian, Telugu and Dakhni. The Sultans were poets themselves .Many works were produced during their time. Also miniature paintings under the Golconda and later Hyderabad school happened during the beginning of Asaf Jahi rule. This article offers glimpses of the dress and textiles in use during the reign of the Qutub Shahi kings and early Asaf Jahis through glimpses from miniature paintings made mostly by court artists. Many travellers who came to the kingdom as diamond merchants have also mentioned some details of the dress and culture of the period in their travelogues. The textiles and fashion at the Qutub Shahi court were of a composite type, a blend of Mughal, Vijaynagara and Telugu styles.



Abdullah Qutb Shah.jpg


Sultan Abdullah Qutub Shah, in white jama having floral design,with a gold coat,patka and shawl, Golconda school,17th century. San Diego Museum of Art, U S A.

    Cotton was grown abundantly given the black soil of the region that they ruled. The weaving community was an important one during the time. The common people also wore differently coloured bright clothes. In summer the lighter shades were preferred and the material used was mulmul (thin cotton) for the dhoti (lower garment) and  regular cotton for the jama (upper garment). The famous Kalamkari textiles were used mostly printed and dyed with madder red colour, an extract of a plant found in Masulipatnam and Palakollu,  with other natural ingredients.
                    

   Bhagmati with her attendant,  miniature painting.

         The image above represents Bhagmati, the beloved of Sultan Mohammed Quli Qutub Shah and her companion in a terrace setting. The costume worn by Bhagmati appears to be a precursor to the 'chaugoshia' made up of four different pieces of apparel and was well worn in the Asaf Jahi 'mahallat'. During the Qutub Shahi reign the telia rumal produced at Devarakonda, Pochampalli Hanamakonda and Kurnool were widely used as dupattas, dhotis, sarees, turbans and patkas or waist bands. Qutub Shahi women wore  sarees  made at Paithan. Hyderabad produced awesome himroo and kimkhab fabrics. Also zari work with gold and silver threads. The centres at Dharmavaram and Anantapur too made sarees. Animal and bird motifs were frequently used on the borders. The Kulliyat of Mohammad Quli Qutub Shah mentions... hems of sarees of women adorned with pearls...!



File:Female Dancer LACMA M.73.5.466 (1 of 4).jpg
 Dancer, Golconda School, mid 17th century, LACMA, Los Angeles.


File:Illuminated Manuscript of the History of the Qutb Shahi Sultans of Golconda LACMA M.89.159.4 (3 of 5).jpg

lIluminated Manuscript, History of the Qutb Shahi Sultans of Golconda,17th century, LACMA , Los Angeles, U S A. 


File:Deccan-Mughul Art (7458299090).jpg

Sultan Abul Hasan Qutub Shah, wearing a long jama, patka and shawl, along with a coat with floral designs. miniature painting.


चित्र:Asaf Jah I.jpg

Nizam-ul-Mulk, Asaf Jah I wearing a long robe-jama and a coloured coat, seen with attendants holding flywhisks  and wearing coloured jamas and patkas, miniature painting, 18th century, Hyderabad.


Image result for hyderabad school of paintings

Women on a terrace, wearing long skirts with floral motifs,18th century, Hyderabad.




References :

  • Kumari, Meena V/Arts and architecture of Qutub Shahi times : lesser known monuments /Delhi : B. R Publishing Corporation,2014.
  • Mittal, Jagdish/Deccani Kalams/Bombay : Marg Publications, Vol XVI,No : 2, 1963.
  • Zebrowski, Mark/Deccani painting, New Delhi : Roli Books,1983.
  • Images are from Wikimedia Commons




Posted by :

Soma Ghosh

Ⓒauthor